The premise
Many years ago (say, pre-Moneymaker Era), there was not a significant amount of poker strategy resources – at least, not compared to the amount available today. Today, poker strategy books are printed too quickly for anybody to read them all. Online articles on strategy are a dime a dozen. You can even learn strategy by listening to Gabe Kaplan’s play-by-play on GSN’s High Stakes Poker. Not only are more resources available, by all appearances, the average player is taking greater advantage of such resources.
Yet, despite the overall improvement in Poker I.Q, I don’t think that the better-than-average poker player is experiencing a notable improvement in his earnings.
One reason is that, of course, his relative advantage is shrinking (or, at best, not growing) as his opponents are becoming all the wiser. It is the basic arms-race dilemma where your efforts to improve your advantage are offset by your opponents’ similar efforts. In short, everybody is reading the same books.
In the same vein, I think all players’ convergence toward the same optimal strategy changes what the optimal strategy should be. To illustrate this, imagine that a large number of players in Rock, Paper Scissors always picked Rock. If you were to write a book on optimal strategy, you would correctly advise people to pick Paper. This strategy would work for a while until all players began picking Paper. Advantage neutralized. What is required is an updated optimal strategy now (i.e., pick Scissors). And just as Scissors would have been a terrible strategy back in the day that everyone picked Rock, I believe that the appropriate strategy now would have been unprofitable back when poker players were not as enlightened as they are now.
The current paradigm
Thomas Kuhn, the historian of science, noted that “a scientific paradigm topples only when the last of its powerful adherents dies” I don’t expect the youngest of the post-Moneymaker boom poker enthusiasts (or their shared poker paradigm) to die any time soon, so I think the Scissors Strategy I’d like to suggest will be a good strategy for a long time.
To figure out how to foil what everyone else is doing, I think we should first inventory what exactly they are doing. I am less interested in inventorying the actual advice in poker books. Rather, it is the manner in which such advice seems to be applied in which I am interested. In my experience, most current poker players’ paradigm for decision-making follows the following rules:
1) Disciplined pre-flop selection;
2) Bet/raise when you think you are ahead;
3) Only call on a draw when getting pot/implied odds;
4) Make continuation bets on the flop when you take the lead pre-flop; and
5) Don’t call off all/most of your chips on a hunch that your opponent is on the steal.
The paradigm shift
How do we foil a strategy that follows these rules?
For starters, you should assume that your opponent is playing with good pre-flop cards and very good cards if they raise. There isn’t a lot of downside to folding when this assumption is wrong, but there is a real savings achieved by folding when you are right.
Of course, your opponents will, by and large, expect you to also be playing good pre-flop cards until proven otherwise. Prove them otherwise. And do so in the cheapest possible manner. If you are going to play connectors, make them suited, played from late position in a multi-way, unraised pot. Ditto with junk like QT and A7. Many players will chunk these hands in any situation (possibly in part because they do not trust themselves to be disciplined post-flop with these hands). If you show down such junk, players will notice that you play junk but will likely forget the context in which you just did it. In other words, it is cheap advertising. Once labeled as a loose donkey, money will begin to flow your way.
A lot of people will call with a big draw even when facing a pot-sized bet on the flop (interestingly, this is a trait that should have gone extinct in our age of poker enlightenment but, in my experience, has not). This is wrong for them to do if they can expect their opponent to pop it again on the turn. While you gain EV each time your opponent makes a mistake, their loose calls in this situation can add a lot of volatility to your results. If you think you are ahead and that your opponent is on a draw, you should make a bet of such magnitude to win the pot then and there. Even if EV is lost in this approach compared to the pot-sized bet (an assumption I am not certain is true), it should be more than compensated by the fact that your stack and bankroll are better protected to be around to do battle later (possibly in an even more EV-advantageous situation).
The frequency of continuation bets seemed to increase significantly shortly after Dan Harrington’s first book was printed. Make note of players that often make continuation bets. If your opponent makes a continuation bet on the flop, strongly consider calling even if you barely connected with the flop. Your opponent will miss the flop about 2/3 of the time, so it is reasonable to think you might be ahead. This is best done if you have something like middle pair with a flush draw. That way, even if you are wrong about your middle pair, you can still draw out on your opponent. And whether it’s that middle pair or the draw-out that wins it for you, you will win much more than the pot; you will win the coveted (i.e., profitable) moniker of “donkey”.
Finally, even players that are willing to dance a little bit will become risk-adverse when facing a very large (that is, either an all-in or pot-committing) bet. Thus, there is a lot of profit to be made with such a bet. Of course, it could be devastating to make such a big move and get called, so you really need to pick your spots to do this. I generally don’t like betting when a “scare card” comes, as it may well have helped your opponent. I also don’t like going all-in as much as simply making a pot-committing bet. Both have the same objective, but many people will read an all-in as a possible bluff but read something short of an all-in bet as representing a legitimate hand. If the pot is $200 and you and your opponent have $400 more in chips each, there is probably more money to be made (i.e., more fold equity) in betting $275 than in betting the $400. Your opponent will only call $275 with a very strong hand; some will call only with the nuts. Just exactly what circumstances do and do not warrant a bluff here would require significantly more analysis than what can fit in this article. That said, you should certainly only do this if your opponent has already shown a propensity to fold in this spot (as opposed to simply your speculation that they might in such a situation). Next, you need to have a pretty high level of confidence that their holdings do not warrant a call on their part. Bluffing with a big bet isn’t something I suggest you do often, but given the enormously high rate of return involved, even doing it infrequently can add quite a bit of EV to your game.
Parting advice
Each of these strategies to foil the new generation of poker players will fail against a poor poker player. Thus, you should still make a practice of labeling each opponent and tailoring your approach to each type. I do think that, given the proliferation of poker advice, there are more good players out there than bad. The fact that bad poker-playing habits have taken a toll on the bankrolls of bad players only compounds this trend. So, it isn’t a bad assumption – at least until proven otherwise – that your opponents are fairly good. I certainly think that is safer than assuming your opponents are bad until proven otherwise.
In summary, when you find your self against the new generation of poker players, you need a paradigm shift. Playing the same game as they do will just result in pushing money back and forth while the rake beats everybody. Step out and try something different, and watch the chips start to flow in your direction.